Wave Transformation and Cross-Shore Sediment Transport on Sloping Beach in Front of Vertical Wall

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Abstract

SAITOH, T. and KOBAYASHI, N., 2012. Wave transformation and cross-shore sediment transport on sloping beach in front of vertical wall. Journal of Coastal Research, 28(2), 354–359. West Palm Beach (Florida), ISSN 0749–0208.

An experiment was conducted in a wave flume to examine cross-shore sand transport on a sloping beach in front of a vertical wall located above the still water level (SWL). The irregular wave transformation and beach profile change were measured using eight wave gauges, four velocimeters, a laser line scanner, and three ultrasonic transducers. An initial semi-equilibrium beach accreted slightly above SWL where approximately 5% of incident waves reached the vertical wall. The cross-shore numerical model CSHORE is calibrated and used to predict the cross-shore variations of the maximum free surface elevation and horizontal velocity that are needed for coastal flood hazard mapping. The crossshore variations of the suspended sand and bedload transport rates predicted by CSHORE are examined to explain the accretion in front of the vertical wall. The experiment in this study was very limited but indicated that accretion could occur in front of the vertical wall exposed to infrequent wave action.

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