Potential of plant cells in culture for cosmetic application


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Abstract

Plants and plant derived ingredients are common and of major importance in the fields of pharmacy, food and cosmetics. The cosmetic industry is a fast moving market. Products have short life-cycles and the industry has to come up with innovative products constantly. Most cosmetic products and their applications are defined by active ingredients. These active ingredients may derive from either synthetic sources or from plant sources. Beside this, no other origin like human or animal are accepted or allowed in cosmetics nor are genetically modified plant sources. The whole cosmetic research and development society is therefore desperately seeking for new innovative plant ingredients for cosmetic application. Unfortunately, new plant derived ingredients are limited because several plants of cosmetic interest are not to be used due to following facts: the plants contain toxic metabolites, the plants grow too slow and a seasonal harvesting is not possible, the concentration of plant constituents differ from harvest to harvest or the plant is endangered and not allowed to harvest. With the plant cell culture technology we bring complete new aspects in the development of novel cosmetic plant derived actives. Due to all these findings, we decided to risk the step into plant cell culture derived cosmetic active ingredient production. This article describes the successfulestablishment of an apple suspension culture producing a high yield of biomass, cultured in disposable, middle-scale bioreactors. The use of a bioactive extract out of these cells for cosmetic application and the efficacy of this extract on mammalian stem cells is also outlined in this article. To obtain a suitable cosmetic product we used the high pressure homogenization technique to decompose the plant cells and release all the beneficial constituents while encapsulating these components at the same time in liquid Nanoparticles. With the plant cell culture technology we bring complete new aspects in the development of novel cosmetic plants derived actives.

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